Istanboel

Istanbul stands on two continents, with the Bosphorus running between them. Ferries shuttle from shore to shore all day, among the gulls, tea served in small tulip-shaped glasses. Two empires ruled from here, and it shows: Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque and its sixth-century dome, church then mosque; the Blue Mosque and its walls of Iznik tiles; the courtyards and harem of Topkapı Palace, where the sultans lived. Underground, the Basilica Cistern lines up hundreds of columns in black water. The Grand Bazaar holds thousands of shops under its vaults, and the Spice Bazaar smells of spices and rose-scented sweets. From the top of the Galata Tower, rooftops, minarets and the strait fit into a single view, with the architect Sinan's Süleymaniye Mosque holding its own hill. Grilled fish is eaten by the water, the pastries drip with syrup, and the call to prayer marks out the day.