Split

Split is a city built inside a palace. Diocletian had a retirement home put up here on the water, and people simply never moved out: Diocletian's Palace now holds cafés, flats and washing strung between Roman columns. His mausoleum became the Cathedral of St Domnius, whose bell tower still rises over the roofs. In front of it, the terraces of Split Riva line the harbour under the palms, facing the ferries that leave for the islands. The wooded hill of Marjan Forest Park drops to pebble coves such as Kasjuni Beach, twenty minutes from the centre. Inland the limestone is bare: Klis Fortress locks a mountain pass above the city, and the waterfalls of Krka National Park step down a green valley. Grilled fish, lamb and figs come with a dry Dalmatian white. Under the palace vestibule, klapa singers let their a cappella harmonies ring off the stone.