Aten

Athens lives under a rock. The Acropolis of Athens stands over the whole city, and the Parthenon has held its place above the white rooftops for twenty-five centuries. Below it, the Ancient Agora of Athens was where people argued, traded and voted, and the Temple of Hephaestus survives there almost whole. The lanes of the old quarter climb in steps towards the hill, between bougainvillea and taverna tables. Monastiraki Flea Market overflows with junk, records and leather sandals, and souvlaki is eaten standing up for a couple of euros. In the evening the terraces fill, and sunset from Lycabettus Hill sets the marble alight. The sea is twenty minutes from the centre: the coves of the Vouliagmeni Coast, the wide sand of Glyfada Beach. The cooking stays plain and generous — grilled octopus, stuffed vine leaves, fried cheese under honey, and resinated wine poured from a jug.