Manama

Manama sits on a low island in the Gulf, at the point where the desert runs into the sea. The city lived off that sea for four thousand years: Gulf pearls passed through here, and divers went down on a single breath to bring them up. That past is laid out at the Bahrain National Museum, and above all at Bahrain Fort, a Portuguese stronghold built on the layers of Dilmun, facing the palm groves. The souq opens behind the arches of Bab Al Bahrain — spices, cloth, gold sold by weight, and jewellers who still weigh natural pearls. The prayer hall of Al Fateh Grand Mosque sits under the largest fibreglass dome in the world, and visitors of any faith are welcome. On the shore, the twin towers of the Bahrain World Trade Center carry three wind turbines between them, and the still water of Bahrain Bay turns copper at sunset. Fish comes with spiced rice, and the dates are grown on the island.